Gunner

You can buy a switch. Connect the DSL modem to it, then branch off the switch to each 'box'.

I gave that game away about a month ago, I just got tired of trying to make it work, was a real problem here. You have to remmember, it had to be patched just for a pIII........... I'm still looking for a replacement as good,

It's NOT a file system problem for sure. It may have something to do with possibly did you install a service pack ? I had a problem with a epson .dll file that required a 'reinstall of epson drivers' nothing more serious than that. Something may be also tuen off in 'services'.

Whoops, didn't realise I've awaken the attack dogs.

Do you know you can just turn it off ?

Not for 440bx chipsets, only 8xx series I believe. Too Bad.

MultiRes is said to work.

I would agree, disabling the page file on this box does three things: 1) Lowers framerate in games 2) Increases heat produced by cpu and drives {always a BAD thing} 3) Doesn't allow some programs that need it to work properly because of design {photoshop, but this can be adjusted IN ps, not really an issue w/this particular program} I use it at a windows managed setting for best results.

2. Set your page file to an adequate size, such as 300Mb. Or let Windows manage it. Do you recommend using a pagefile, just wondering, currently I don't use one.

Have you tried changing it ?

oooops, can't see the pic... I've been playing with that DisablePagefileThingy and it seems BBA is correct, don't do squat for me. Seems the only thing that works for me is to turn off the pagefile in advanced>setting etc., then remove the pagefile from c: & defrag. But better ? I'm not so sure, it's very hard for me to see a smooth and correct swap on this box. Using the above, the screen will move faster, but at some point during a game, I'll get one {and usually only one} VERY hard and noticeable jerk, not bad in games like UT/Q3 but a flight sim, WHEW !!! It's nasty. Swapping is not a bad thing, ya just have to decide what U like best. Framerate during this study has been a non-issue either way.

Perhaps this will help.... It's getting kinda dated, but generally it should get close. http://pcnineoneone.com/howto/electricity1.html Other examples would maybe come from your mobo manufacturer, i.e. Soyo claims this board to be "133mhz ready", but one of their 4 requirements listed is a psu that can supply 40+ amps to the 3.3v line.

I haven't had a problem with that and I 'game' pretty hard {half this box was built for UT/Q3 etc.} I suppose I could get clever, take the batteries out and hook it up to an AC source but it would be corded again.... Wouldn't be able to 'drive' it up and down your gf's back from 6 ft. away while surfing the web !!! I do understand and for the most part, agree with you, BUT my experience has been better w/Logitech. I've tried the M$ stuff and found it awful, I'd be ashamed to market that myself, it was that bad. And the beef I got with Logitech is the very tiny sync button next to the battery compartment. Had this thing quite some time before I noticed I was running outta sync, which kinda says good things about it {that it can run that way and still perform}. I'm quite sensitve to anything even slightly related to ANY refreshing, I've only got one good eye that strains the brains easily if things get weird, this mouse I've been able to live with.

I use a Logitech cordless mouseman optical {Dual would be better}, it's pretty good, though as someone said, use it alot {and I do} be prepared to support Duracell. New set for me is about every three weeks @ 12 to 16 hrs. use daily. I also have a 'corded' Logitech usb mouse on standby.... You never know if you'll always have batteries

Hey mike3169 a BIG THANKS !!!! I've been complaining of incorrectly 'sized' boxes for couple of years now, most tech sites have beaten this engineer pretty badly... Glad to see someone has wised up ! Your ON IT DUDE !!!