jmmijo
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Everything posted by jmmijo
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Quote: Personally I find these links within the message text that bring up descriptions when you move the mouse over them far more annoying.. or is it just me? I find them annoying as well but I just ignore them now and don't hover over them. Can't seem to get the URL in the status bar because it flashes to the ad so damn fast
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You mentioned a firewall which I would think maybe providing DHCP services internally or on the LAN side of things. Can you verify this with the IT folks that admin this box ?!? It sound like you could just as easily setup a second nic on this PDC, if there isn't one already and just use ICS but this maybe insufficient due to the number of users you're indicating on the domain Also, you could check the settings on the PDC and note if there are only one or two DNS servers listed. If so then include a third or fourth DNS server which the HOST ISP would provide, unless these DNS addresses that are listed are the HOST ISP's too. The company I work for provides our own internal DNS server along with our external HOST ISP DNS server addresses. Since we have a couple of different HOST ISP's we have a multi-homed setup. Not the easiest to configure and maintain but we have backup in case of failure.
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There are a number of ways to accomplish this: 1) Check your motherboard manufacturers website for the latest BIOS/Firmware updates for you model motherboard. There are some older motherboards that didn't properly support the el Torrito bootable CD's but most manufacturers should have updated and fixed this by now. 2) Use the Microsoft knowledge base article on how to use the install/setup media to create boot/setup floppys. 3) Also look at this Microsoft knowledge base article on how to create a bootable floppy disk for both FAT and NTFS partitions.
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When will these ISP's learn that a USB xDSL modem/router is for the birds :x I think you can resolve this issue if you can convince the ISP to give you an external Ethernet xDSL mode/router instead However this is the tricky part because to keep the costs down USB models are much cheaper to produce however due to the high-bandwidth that most broadband connections have they do seem to run into all kinds of issues like what you're experiencing... Good luck in convincing the ISP of this. You may also need to do some googling to find some BETA device drivers for XP, also if you have the make and model of your USB device, please post that as you mentioned Atmel, these seem to be the most problematic of the bunch I'm sad to say
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There are a number of various models in the P2B series from Asus. Please refer to this link for more info. Basically you need to get the exact model from the motherboard, it's usually stamped in between a couple of the PCI slots. Then refer to the link above and find the exact model and see if there is a firmware update. Download this along with the flasher utility and then format a blank floppy disk to copy the flasher and the updated BIOS image to. Boot from a DOS bootable disk and there you go. Asus usually gives a very detailed step-by-step procedure on how to do this as well Here's the direct FTP link. You can use a web browser or an FTP client to access this server.
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Yes, this is a good thing to check for sure, sometimes certain versions of device drivers will behave erratically with some system configs, you can always try out ealier versions of the device driver to test if the same issue(s) occur or not
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You're welcome Just remember that sometimes when you change a working config you may run into issues like this
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Elitegtoup (ECS) P6STMT motherboard INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE
jmmijo replied to krick's topic in Hardware
Who is the manufacturer of that HD ?!? You can test out the media for any defects, most manufacturers have some sort of diagnostic software you can d/l and create a bootable floppy disk onto and run it from there. Western Digital calls their's Data Lifeguard Seagate calls their's SeaTools It's possible that there are some bad clusters now on the HD and it's time to recycle the drive -
Quote: How do you get into the BSOD and my power rating is a 500 watt and it says 115v and 250v to switch it, shouold i switch it to 250v?? NO!!! Unless you want to fry the PS and possibly the motherboard and other components with it The US runs off of a standard 110~130vac for input voltage. There are a lot of Power Supplies that have a manual input voltage selector switch for other countries that run off of a standard 220vac input voltage, like Europe for instance Most new Power Supplies use an automatic selector now and can take an input voltage of 110~220vac
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Elitegtoup (ECS) P6STMT motherboard INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE
jmmijo replied to krick's topic in Hardware
You're not using any kind of PCI ATA card then correct ?!? Just the onboard IDE interface ?!? A third party IDE/ATA card usually requires that a drivers disk be supplied during the install process, pressing F6 during the initial startup screen to provide this driver is required so that Win 2K/XP can load this driver into memory and copy it to the install drive during installation. -
I would try both things, move back to the original drive config and retest for jumpy/jittery sound. Also just try disabling most of the USB ports, you can usually adjust how many USB ports are active in the system BIOS settings. Of course any USB devices on any of the disabled ports will need to be moved to the enabled ones
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Hey dano, just noticed you be up the river from me in da Gorge Well, I be 40+ myself and have been into Mainframes, Minis and Micros since the mid-70's. My retro collection is growing cause I'm such a packrat Have fun computing and try out OS/2 if you have a copy
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Actually I still use them *all* There was no option for this as I still do some testing even on Win 95a, yes I still own a floppy version of this one too along with the Upgrade CD version and the upgrade CD version of 98. I have full versions of 98-SE, ME which I liked a lot The fun thing to do with Win 95 however is to install it along with QEMM 8.xx, twas a sight to behold 8) Since I still run a couple of DOS boxes too I suppose that makes me a retro phreak, but hey so be it :x I have to get my Doom 2 audio fix on my Ensoniq Soundscape and MT32/General MIDI music now and again...
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Make sure that neither the Promise controller and the Sound Blaster are sharing IRQ's... They are supposed to be bus mastering devices but in fact do not always like to share to well Also make sure all you chipset and device drivers are up to date.
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Try this link
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Hmm, I guess what I really wanted to say is that there are (2)Two voltages to be concerned about. One is the Graphics Card Power voltage and the other is the Signaling voltage. So which voltage is this app telling you about ?!? Also you may wish to review the technical specs from Intel's website on the latest AGP v3.0 specs. Look at TABLE 1, this shows both the power and the signaling voltages for the various AGP transfer speeds. Be sure you have Adobe Acrobat Reader installed
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Actually the motherboard will most likely be an Intel OEM board However that voltage is normal for an AGP 4x graphics card, since the card supports both 4x and 8x AGP and the motherboard only supports up to AGP 4x cards, this is why the voltage says 1.5. For an AGP 2x/1x cards would be either 3.3v.
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Sorry it doesn't look like Compaq/HP has any support for NT4 However I did find some OEM generic drivers located at ESS Technologies Please look at NOTE 3 as they say it may not work due to the fact that NT4 is not PnP compatible
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I do own and use many Aopen motherboards however I don't use SilenTek or any kind of fan noise reduction software because I don't believe in it and want the fans to run at full speed all the time. The issue could be the fact that the fan is off rather then slowed down and you should check the Hardware Monitor section in the system BIOS and see if there is an option for this. Aopen usually includes a plethora of settings for this Another thing to check would be the current BIOS revision, see if there are any later revisions that correct this issue.
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Well that is a good question, let me try to answer this for you: Many older graphics cards, including the one you have, the Canopus Pure 3D, are supported mainly by integrated OS drivers. What this means is that there is a device driver that should support this device that comes with the OS itself. Now since this card is a 3D graphics card only, it's based on the old 3dFX Voodoo 1 chipset, then you should be able to manually choose this driver. However I just looked at my XP drivers list and didn't notice any listing for any of these types of cards. I know these drivers are listed in Windows 98/98-SE/ME but I bet Microsoft dropped support for these cards in both Windows 2K/XP I would try out this website for more info on 3rd Party Device Drivers for Windows XP as they do have a number of them that are still being tweaked and fixed for proper operation under XP
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You're not doing anything wrong, the archive was most likely a self extracting, self launching install so when it finished copying the files needed for up[censored] it needed you to restart the machine for proper initialization of said device drivers. Not all drivers have a nice little, redundant systray icon to look at and in fact these are really not neccessary so to check what you currently have installed then get the display properties open and check the file details and see what the date and version/revision of these drivers are and compare them to what you d/l from the net
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Best Imaging Software - Drive Image or Ghost?
jmmijo replied to ThC 129's topic in Everything New Technology
I've primarialy used Drive Image and liked it a lot, however this is going to be moot shortly as Symantec recently purchased Powerquest so I'm guessing that the Ghost and Drive Image technologies will soon be merged together. -
Do you perhaps have a shortcut to My Documents in the Startup folder ?!? Perhaps in the registry as well ?!?
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Another option is to get a cheap SOHO 5/8 port switch to add more ethernet ports to your LAN I do this on my home LAN along with a Linksys Gateway/Router/NAT box.
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It could be broken or perhaps it could be the rear line out jack itself. Also have you checked the volume control panel applet for proper output as well. Maybe you have one of the common 3D Sound settings turned on, this can sometimes cause sound to be quiet in one speaker and not the other.