danleff

Did you follow the directions to set up your machines as noted in the EBR-2310 users manual? If so, what did you try?

Could you post the model numbers of the two drives? Also the make and model of the caddy?

I assume that this is an HP A1020A system? Try downloading and installing the audio driver update, located here.

Bear with me a little, as your original post was a little confusing. You were having the shutdown problem and took it to a tech., who replaced the hardware to the specs. that you posted? Or the hardware was always in the system to begin with? Shutting down problems can occur when either you have an inadequate power supply, or the system shuts down due to overheating. In your case it is happing during a load, namely playing games. If the problem only ocured when the tech replaced the hardware, take it back and insist that they fix it, or work with you on a solution. However, I noticed something right off the bat. I bet you have an inadequate power supply. Your video card requires a lot of power under load. If you put a 500 watt quality power supply in the system (is yours a quality one now?) and the problem goes away, you have your answer. I have also read that some ATI drivers seem to have a problem with this card. You have the drivers installed that came with the card?

Lost track of this thread, sorry! This system is 7 yeards old? Maybe an issue with the bios, given that this is a 400 gig hard drive, which is not supported by the system, given it's age? The enclosure is supposed to be plug-n-play, but given the upgrade from ME, maybe a driver issue? If your still there, I will give a look see.

Reading all these posts is interesting, as each person can have a different issue. What you need to do is to try to determine where the issue is. For example, reading my previously referenced article, there could be several issues that can cause the problem. Firstly, on most systems, the bios will give you a clue on what is going on. If you get into the bios, look and see if the hard drive is failing. I just had this happen to me. The bios was not detecting the hard drive in question, so I ran some utilities from Samsung and the drive is indeed bad, Back for an RMA. The issue with keyboard issues is more complex. If you try another PS/2 keyboard and it does not work, this leads you to a bad keyboard controller, or a problem with the port itself. If you try to use a USB keyboard, you must make sure that by default, USB keyboard support is enabled in the bios. This is not always the case, depending on the system. Also, most systems only like you to use the actual USB ports for a USB keyboard directly attached to the motherboard (the back panel). Some older systems don't support USB keyboards well at all. If you had an overheating problem, or "burnt" smell happen, you need to determine what the problem actually is. The power supply is one possibility, but so is a fryed motherboard. Or, you had a bad power supply, but now have a short in the sysem, when you moved to a new case and power supply. I have to look up the article I once read, posted by another person on bad capacitors. On way to test the system that is having these problems (I am a Linux user at heart) is to try a Live CD vesion of Linux. This way, all process are run in RAM and you can troubleshoot the system easier. If the keyboard and mouse work on a live CD, then you may have a problem with Windows in general, assuming that you can navigate in the bios with the keyboard, as well. If you pop in your Windows CD and try to get into recovery mode, and the keyboard works, then you can repair Windows, assuming that you have a corrupted Windows environment. But, if you can't use the keyboard at all, then a hardware issue is probably at fault, most likely a motherboard failure. I've seen a short in the system cause the keyboard/mouse issue. This often happens when transferring a motherboard, or installing a new one and there is a short between the motherboard and the case. You need to inspect your motherboard for any possible shorts/ contact with the motherboard and metal components in the case. For the bad capacitor issue, see this article. I would also crack the case and see if you have any large amounts of dust clogging the system, especially on the CPU fan. I also just discovered, quite by accident, that my Windows instability issue on one of my systems was caused by overheating hard drives. I have four in my system and the hard drives were overheating. Improving the circulation on the system solved the issue. So, the main hard drive was failing due to overheating. The motherboard's manufacturer page often will have a FAQ page that may sddress the issue, as well. That is why it is important to know what system or motherboard is being used (why we ask), as inherent problems have been identified and a firm solution exists. Sometimes it is a bios upgrade that is needed, or a driver software issue. Detective work is what it is!

Did you see this article on the subject?

That does seem to be the case. You probably read the same Microsoft related articles that I did on the subject, when I looked at this after reading your post, here , and here. Also, did you see this one?

This article should help.

Did you disable or remove the old video drivers before installing the new card? Posting the make and model system that you have, as well as the PCI video card make and model will also help troubleshoot your problem.

The most logical reason, given the age of the system, is that you are trying to use a USB 2.0 device in a system that does not have USB 2.0 support. What is the make and model of the drive enclosure? What motherboard make and model is this, or what make and model system? Does the drive enclosure still work on the other systems?

Borg22, what model number is this laptop?

Was the system working well until the point that the error occured? In other words, this system had Win XP installed on it and was functioning? Or, did you try to pop in a disk with Win XP on it already? What make and model motherboard is this, or the make and model of the system? No new hardware or software was installed on the system when the problem started to occur?

Looks like you are not alone. See this review. Depending on hpw savy you are with Linux, take a look at this thread on the subject of DVI.

Ideally, you need to install both instances of XP with both drives in the system. Otherwise it get's complicated. See this article for examples of loading multiple installations of Windows. So what you have now is that both drives are recognized in the bios when they are connected. The origional installation is on primary master. The other is on secondary master, installed originally as primary master. It is likely that this will not work, but you know how to edit the boot.ini file? Your original install boot.ini on the primary master should look something like; [boot loader] timeout=10 default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS [operating systems] multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS="Windows XP" /fastdetect You can try to add the second install to that boot.ini (in bold) [boot loader] timeout=10 default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)WINDOWS [operating systems] multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(0)WINDOWS="Windows XP" /fastdetect multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(2)partition(0)WINDOWS="Windows XP2" /fastdetect There is another technique on how to do this, let me look it up again. ...OK see this article.

Did you load XP on each drive while they were both on the system, or with only one drive in the system at a time (each instance of XP was installed with only that hard drive in the system as primary master)?

You may have already did this, but did you try to contact the company and ask what they did to "fix" the problem, also telling them that it did not work? If the work was done under warranty, then they should honor it and work with you. Is the laptop always connected directly to a power outlet, or through a surge protector? Does it happen only when on battery power or anytime, regardless?

More information would be helpful. Did you install both instances of XP on this system, or did you just pop in another hard drive with XP already installed? Are both hard drives IDE drives or a combination of IDS and SATA? How are both jumpered, if they are both IDE drives? In terms of the bios, what motherboard make and model is in the system? Or, is this a Dell, Gateway or other major brand system? If the latter, what make and model?

I took a closer look at the information that you provided. The issue comes down to a couple of senarios. 1. When you tried to reinstall Windows XP, was this after having Linux on the system, or after trying to install Linux on the hard drive? What Distro and version of Linux do you have on CD. This may actually help you to format the hard drive correctly before installing Windows again. It appears that you have been trying a variety of things to format the hard drive. This could simply be the issue that you face now. Either the hard drive is formatted with Linux, or Linux partitions, or you have a situation where the partitioning attempts have made a mess of the hard drive in general. If the whole hard drive was partitoned with a Linux partition, or even a good part of it, the Windows installer can't read these Linux partitions and gets confused, or can't find enough space to install to. 2. Now on to the Windows install problem in general. Assuming that the drive is not dead, is this the original drive that came with your system, or did you add it on afterwards? Some bios' and Wndows will have difficulty reading the drive, depending on the age of the system and the way that the bios detectes the hard drive. A bios fix can remedy this, or you need to change the detection of the drive in the bios to allow Windows to proceed to install normally. This usually happens when a much larger hard drive is used in an older system not designed to handle the larger drive. In this case, you may be able to change the detection in the bios to either "large" or "LBA" (from "auto") and Windows should install OK. Which leads to the question, was Windows pre-installed on this hard drive (came with the computer pre-installed) or did you install Windows yourself the first time, on this hard drive?

Does the bios recognize the drive on boot? Or, if you get into the bios. is the drive auto detected by the bios? Quote: I aready try to conected as a secunday disck but it windows doesn recognize it, so I dont know what to do. When you tried the second drive, was it the only drive in the system, or did you add it with the original drive in place? Did you jumper and cable the drive correctly (master, slave...)?

Run the Samsung diagnostics disk on the drive to see if it is bad. The link to the utility is here. Of course this is assuming that you have another computer available to burn the ISO file to a CD.

Excuse the shortness of this reply and multiple questions, but this is asked often. The mistake users make is usually an error in partitioning the hard drive for Fedora. What method did you use to partition the hard drive, ahead of time usng some sort of utility, or by way of the Fedora partitioning utility during the installation? If a third party utility, where did you make space for Fedora, at the begining of the drive or the end? If you partitioned using the Fedora installer, what method of partitioning did you chose from the menu when you got to the point of telling Fedora how to partition the drive? Where did you tell Fedora to place the Grub files and bootloader? ...and just to clarify, this is the only hard drive in the system?

A pretty good discussion about the subject is on this thread. Also, most memory manufacturer's web sites have decision trees that guide you to what RAM works in your specific system or motherboard. Of course, there is also the users manual for each, as well as information on the server or motherboard manufacturer's website.

Can you tell us what you tried so far? Did you you to set it up using the via-rhine driver in Yast?

Is there any possibility that the mouse and keyboard connections got switched? Or, that one of the pins on the cable is bent? What happends when you just leave the keyboard disconnected and try to boot the system?