danleff

OK, this error can arise due to a number of issues. 1. The DVD that you bought was burned incorrectly or is not compatible with your DVD drive. Is this a full commercial version of Mandriva, or a DVD burned by someone who is selling them online? If the DVD was burned on a DVD disk that is not compatible with your particular drive, this can explain the problem also. I would never buy a home burned DVD or CD disk from someone, as you never know what you are getting. 2. A hardware problem between Mandriva and your system. Can you post what make and model system this is, or what motherboard that you are using, if this is a self-built system? This is a 64 bit version of Mandriva that you are using, so I assume that your system is an Athlon 64 bit motherboard and processor? In some systems, say with sata drives (as many Athlon 64 bit motherboards are), you may have to change a setting in the bios to get Mandriva to see the CDROM drive correctly. 3. Is the DVD drive an internal drive or a USB DVD drive? I have an external DVD drive that is a real pain to boot from on my motherboard. If the DVD drive is an internal drive, is it attached correctly to an IDE (not RAID) port on the motherboard? This would apply to a self built system, or is you installed the DVD drive yourself (it was not installed by the manufacturer).

Where are you at in the process now?

You should be able to choose the cdrom drive as the installation media and proceed normally.

Are you trying to install Mandriva Linux 2007? Where are you being prompted for a boot device? Mandriva should install from the DVD without any such input from you. What it will ask is where you want to install it to (what hard drive or hard drive partition). Did you tell it to use your CD drive to install from? If you are getting the screen that I think you are referring to, you choose CD as the source of the installation.

I have to ask, what are you using RedHat ES 3 on your laptop for? This is an operating system to run a server. Is this what you are trying to do? If you want to use Linux for a desktop OS, why not download Fedora Core 5, which will support the laptop much better and most likely need much less fuss with hardware detection and software installation?

Fedora has a quirk that it does not recognize some wireless designations in the Network Manager. You will see what we mean soon. Yes, you are using Gnome, good, this helps. I wonder if Fedora has the prism 3 drivers native. I know the prism 2 ones are. Try this. Get into a console, as root user and type in the following; /sbin/iwconfig (hit the enter key) See if there are any wireless connections recognized, then report back. If not, the drivers are not loaded. We do know, from you first post, that the PCMCIA interface sees and identifies the card. The question is if there is native driver support. I wish that I could walk you through this better, but I do not have one of these cards to do so. There do not seem to be any web articles on Fedora and this card available. What make and model laptop are you using?

When you do an installation of Fedora, it assumes that you are installing to one hard drive in the system. Fedora, by default, installs Grub on the MBR of the disk that you choose to install it on. This is why XP booted after you installed Fedora, with no Grub menu. You must tell Fedora, during the installation, to place the grub bootloader on the MBR of the primary sata drive. To complicate matters, HP systems, especially with XP pre-installed, often have a rescue partition at the beginning of the hard drive. This is often a hidden partition, but if you make it active, Grub will try to boot from it (assuming hd0,0 is the XP drive). Quote: I always got back to grub again after a very quick flash of a black screen. Often this happens with grub, whenthe partition that you are attempting to boot from is hidden. There is also a bug in Grub that can cause this. The following assumes that the primary sata drive has XP on it and you installed Fedora on the secondary sata drive, or sdb, which is not the drive that boots first in the bios. Now that you have changed the designation of how the drives are detected in the bios, you have two choices, try to rescue Fedora again (which may fail) or re-install Fedora the correct way. See my articles on installing Fedora on two hard drives located here and here. Also, see the section on sata drives here. If you re-install Fedora, make sure that grub is installed to the primary (boot) sata drive. My article here speaks about this. The link to the entire article is located here.

Looks like there are a couple of issues here. You need to have grub installed to the primary master drive, which should be hda. The map is like so; hda = primary master hdb = primary slave hdc = secondary master hdd = secondary slave This assumes that you are using IDE drives, not sata drives. XP boots straight up, as you most likely installed grub to the MBR of the Fedora drive, not the one that XP is on, which should be hda, unless you have changed the boot oder of the hard drives in the bios at some point. If the grub menu listed hdc as the MBR, then you either installed Fedora to the secondary master drive, or have an unusual setup for the drives. Can you post your drives, how they are jumpered and what is installed or on each? What drive did youinstall Fedora on? When you do the installation, you must alter where grub is installed correctly, as it assumes you are installing on a single drive in the system. I assume this is what happened to you. See my article here which shows the advanced bootloader options and how to set them. It looks like I need to be clearer in my previous linked pages, so I will change that section.

Your information confirms that this is a prism chipset, thanks for that. It saves a lot of leg work. I believe that there should be native support for the card, based on what you already posted. Can you tell us what you have tried to get the card to work? this would tell us a lot. For example; Did you get into Fedora's network manager and try to configure the card? Do you have the essid and passphrase for the router to get the card to capture a signal? Realize, that in Windows, the D-Link driver package guides you through this process. With Fedora, you need to use the network manager to do this. D-Link does not have a driver package for Linux. ...and you are using gnome as your GUI (graphical interface) in Fedora?

The chances that someone has used Linux on this system may be slim. I would head on over to the unoffical support forums, located here and do a search. There is also a general review of the lappy that you may want to read on the forums located here.

If you choose Custom layout, then you are telling Fedora that you want to select the partitions (that you either preformatted, or want to create) on the ticked drive. See the Fedora article here. From the article; Quote: You manually specify the partitioning on the selected drives. The next screen enables you to configure the drives and partitions for your computer. If you choose this option, Fedora Core creates no partitions by default . By choosing this option, you tell Fedora that you want to manually assign and/or create partitions on the ticked drive. This is why you got the error 17 with grub, no partitions were most likely set, unless you edited the partitions that you created and assigned them as /boot and/or / root partitions. Since you are installing Windows again, the MBR will be written over and grub will be gone. Re-install Fedora and when you get to the partitioning section during the installation, untick all of the drives, except the one that Fedora will be installed to. Keep the option to Remove all partitions on selected drives and create default layout and install grub to the MBR of the master drive, which should be hda. This way you will have Grub on the MBR and can dual boot Fedora or Windows XP. This all assumes that you did not pre-format the install drive with appropriate Linux partitions before hand, that you want to use. It also assumes that you want to dedicate the whole drive to Fedora.

I never have used this product, but the answer to your question should be on the Acronis faq page, located here. You apparently have an older version, but the rules should still apply. However, error 17 usually means that you made a mistake in allocating how grub was installed. In other words, you either did not set up the partitions properly, or the boot order is incorrectly set for the drives in their proper logical order. Grub should be on the MBR of the master drive, so that it can find the Linux files that it needs properly. How did you tell grub to be installed when you installed Fedora? Did you change the physical designations of the drives at all, or change the boot order in the bios after installing Fedora? See my articles on the subject here and also here.

Looking at this thread, I have some questions. When you say that you got the same message, what message are you referring to? Is it the message that you said in the title of your thread, the ntldr warning? If so, you are not booting off a valid boot disk, or off the Windows 2000 cd, or this is not a valid Windows 2000 boot cd. Apparently the boot sector is still resident on the hard drive and trying to find the Windows boot information files. You are not booting from the CD, but from the hard drive, which has no good copy of Windows on it. You may have erased the partition on the hard drive, but not the MBR. When you made the Winboot floppy, did you invoke the exe file to make the floppy, or simply place the exe file directly on a floppy? If the latter, you are not booting from the floppy, rather from the hard drive, which still has the MBR resident on it. The Winboot utility must be invoked from Windows, which then prompts you to put in a floppy and goes on tomake a bootable floppy disk. If this is a ECS L7vmm2 motherboard that you have, the boot order in the bios should be the cd as the first boot device, then the hard drive, if you are trying to boot from the Windows 2000 boot cd. If booting off a valid Win 98 boot disk made from the Winboot utility, then the first order boot device in the bios should be the floppy drive. This should bring you to a command prompt. You then need to change to the drive designation for the cd drive and execute the setup command that Relic spoke about. Let me know if I am off base on this, but it sounds like one of these problems is the issue.

"Disk grinding" should not occur and usually means that either you don't have the recommended amount of RAM in the system (at least 256 mb) for Fedora Core 5, you did not allow a swap file to be created during the installation (did an expert install for the filesystems), or have a very small hard drive on the system. Does your system meet the system requirements for Fedora Core 5? Seriously, Windows XP takes about 3-4 minutes to load on my Athlon XP 2100+ system (before I can do any tasks), due to all the virus and spyware programs loading in the background. Conversely, Puppy Linux, a lightweight distro, takes about 15 seconds to load to the GUI.

Linux from sratch is a good reference book for the basics of linux, but not totally relevant for Fedora Core 5. The program that you tried to install is for an older version of Fedora, which looks like Core 1, which is no longer used. The bad magic number refers to this older program your are trying to install needing to be compiled in an old version of the application compiler than what is on your system. In short, the program is very outdated. FC 5 has a graphical interface for the package installer called yumex. See The Unofficial Fedora FAQ for a description of how to install Yumex, the interface that you need (question # 3). You than either invoke Yumex from the command line (as root user) or if you are using the gnome desktop, go to Applications-->System Tools--> Yum Extender (yumex).

I think that the answer to your question is here?

Let me go back ro my previous comment on USB 1 vs. USB 2. Often, motherboards, depending on their vintage, have natively one or the other, USB 1or USB 2 capable on the back (attached to the motherboard) and 2 or more on the front panel. Often one set is USB 1 and the other USB 2. See your motherboard manual to check out what is on the system and where they are located. The key often lies in the motherboard, either in a correct updated bios, which will handle the problem (as the motherboard company becomes aware of the issue), or updated drivers from the motherboard manufacturer. So, rather than it being a real Microsoft issue, it can be a motherboard hardware issue. So ofen the solution is either; 1. Update the bios, if this is a known issue with hardware detection and a bios fix is needed/available to fix the problem, or, if not; 2. Make sure that you have the latest drivers for USB from the manufacturer's web site. I would also check the motherboard's web page for any FAQ that identify the issue as known and what they recommend as a fix. USB 2 ports should be backwards compatible with USB 1, but not USB 1 for 2. So if you have a USB 2 device, they malfunction on a USB 1 port, or give the system fits. This might explain why they work in 1 set and not the other.

Are you booting from the Win 2000 cd and getting into the recovery console? See the Microsoft article here.

Take a look at this how-to that seems to fit your situation. A recent article too!

Interesting! This card is not listed in the US D-Link site, but is apparently sold in Australia? Anyway, it has a Ralink Rt61 chipset. D-Link does not make Linux drivers for their cards, so you must use the corresponding Linux driver. Each wireless card has it's own onboard chipset. This is independent from the motherboard (has nothing to do with the motherboard chipset). So, you must obtain the Linux driver that will work. Also, you need to know the settings from the router (ESSID and WPA or WEP encription key), as there is no automatic setup, as with the Windows setup disk that you have with the drivers. To give you an idea of what you need to do, see this link which speaks of this card in Ubuntu (as an example). Another example for the older Ralink chipset is here. My article is slightly outdated, but you get the idea! If you want to give it a try, we can proceed. The first link does not give you a step-by-step, but let's see what you think.

Wilhelmus hit the nail on the head. I had a ton of problems installing Fedora Core 6 test 3 on my system, until I used the resolution command that he suggested to do the installation (not on Virtual PC). Just be aware of the comments about the installation, noted in the link that he gave. It looks like, from my perspective, that Fedora Core 5 would fair the best.

You posted this on the Windows forum. If you want, I can move the thread to the linux forum,since this is about Fedora Linux. What is important to know, is what the revision number is for the wireless card. This way we know what chipset is on the card and can direct you to a proper driver. There are two revisions, A1 an B1, both have different chipsets (Marvell and Atheros respectively).

If you are new to Linux, you should not install Fedora Core 6 test 3, or any other test version of Linux. This is not a fully tested version of Linux. It is just what it says, a test release, meant for those with experience with Linux to test for Fedora and give feedback. I am having a little trouble understanding what you did, please explain more fully. It sounds like you did a text install and not a graphical installation? Did the installation complete fully? According to ATI, it should be supported. See the ATI article here. Could you provide a little more information? Is this a non-athlon 64 processor in your system? What is the make and model of your system? Did you use the correct iso of Fedora for the installation? In other words, what ISO images did you burn to do the installation? The non-athlon 64 images, or the x_64 version for an Athlon 64 system? Did you attempt to configure the video card and monitor during the installation at the hardware summary screen?

OK, I had to look up DIY..I'm not an acronym person. You need to tell us more about what system you have and what you want to do with your computer - what tasks you expect to do. This is a huge assumption on anybody's part to guess these things and make accurate suggestions. Depending on your hardware and what you plan to do with your computer, more pertinent suggestions can be made. First, you may want to read this article if you have no knowledge of Linux at all. Once we know what system you have, then many recommendations can be made.

This is an interesting thread, which over a 1 year span from start to now! What folks don't seem to be noting is that they are trying to unplug and hot plug USB devices without removing the USB devices first from the system tray. If you remove the specific USB device from the systen tray, you should not get these messages when (hot) plugging in another device. Plug in a USB device and that device occupies the specific USB port. It stays resident until you remove the device from the system tray, or shut down the computer, or in some cases unplug it. Some USB devices use only the power from the system, like USB sticks. When you shut down your computer, there is still some juice to the motherboard. If your look at the motherboard's LED (if you have one) - not on the system case, but the motherboard itself, you will notice that the light is still on, indicating that there is still juice to the motherboard. This would explain why a USB stick stays lit. If you did not remove the device before shutting down (which you always should via the system tray) this happens. This also increases the risk of losing data, if you don't disengage the stick (remove it from the system tray) before physically removing it from the port. Any current is usually gone after a minute or so, but on some systems, there are traces of juice still resident for some time. Hence, this is why unplugging the computer works. It totally removes any current to the motherboard and to the device. USB hubs are another issue. Those with there own power source tend to work better, as they don't rely on the motherboard to power them totally. Those that rely on the system to power them tend to be less reliable and many USB devices don't like them (require self powered hubs). USB 1 vs. USB 2 is another quirk. Many motherboards have both, some only the older standard. You need to consult the specs. on your particular systems. I agree that you should have the latest drivers from your motherboard company installed for proper functioning of your USB devices. This may also assure that newer USB devices may work better on older systems that don't natively support USB2, only 1. You will still get a message stating that a USB device is plugged into a USB 1 port, but they will work.