Relic

I do believe that file is important to the operation of System restore: MACHINEGUID.TXT The global universal identification (GUID) of the restore folder. The system's data store is located in \System Volume Informat1on\_restore(GUID}. I know you've tried a gazillion things out, and although I've read this entire thread, I don't remember every single thing you've done, although I'm sure you do. Having said that, I found another page of Restore problems/fixes, maybe something here will help. http://www.sierra-technical.com/systemrestore.htm

How about both of you try deleting all but the six files I have in my folder, then reboot? My system restore works like a charm, with only six files in there, possibly that's the prob?

BTW, make sure you have "show hidden files" selected in the folder view tab, it's a hidden system file and normally doesn't show up.

If you don't have it, I can send it to you, it's only 13K.

Okay, got the kid dropped off at work, came home, had to take tyhe wife to her interview. Waited for her(she got the job )then came home. Started messing with Total Air War one more time, still can't get rid of the artifacts, decided I come pull out my hair over someone else's problems cause my own is frustrating the hell out of me, so here I am. So, in my "Restore" folder I have the following files: filelist.xml MachineGuid.txt rstrlog.dat rstrui.exe srdiag.exe srframe.mmf Are all of those in your folder?

Originally posted by gef4000 mx: Quote: Here's what I figured out i had to do without the help of mediacom! I had to first unistall everything then reinstall it the etherenet still didnt work so i figured well thats not the problem so i put in the mediacom to hi-speed internet software and then i had to eneter my acount key and registration number, register my e-mail address through mchsi.com then, i had to reset my hub then restart wait one day and boom hi-speed. And no one at mediacom could figure this out? You're a shoe-in for a job there buddy, drop off an application, you know a hell of lot more about how there system works than they do.

The recovery console is easy, all you need to do is copy files to the correct directory. I have a kid to wake up right now so he gets to work on time, but I shall return. I'll search my system for all the files relating to system restore(mine works fine), and tell you which ones to copy. Usually the files can be found/copied from the i386 folder on the CD. The recovery console expands them as it copies them, so there's no worry there. I recently had to bite the bullet and use the recovery console, after all I had heard about it, I was somewhat unsure of my ability to use it. Heh, it's a piece of cake. I deleted my "ntldr" file from my root directory in a cleaning frenzy, oopsie, error at bootup, missing ntldr file. Hmmmm, "NTLDR", does that mean NT-loader? Yeah, not good. Copied the ntldr from my wife's system to a floppy. Booted from my XP CD, went to the recovery console. Typed in "copy a:\ntldr c:\". Rebooted. Fixed. I'll be back after I drive the kid to work. If you can't extract the files from your CD, I'll put mine up on my webspace, you can dwnld them, save them to a floppy or CD, and copy from there. YOUR problem is really starting to pizz ME off, heh heh heh.

You have three choices. 1) Do a repair install of XP, fix the problem. 2) Copy all the files that are required by "restore" using the recovery console, after booting from the CD, and fix the problem. 3) Continue going on about this problem ad-nausium until XP is obsolete and Vista has taken over, then we'll all just tell you to upgrade your version of Windoze. I suggest option two first, the recovery console is quite simple to use and will probably fix the problem. If you choose not to do this, use option one, this will definitely fix the problem. You say you don't want to do a repair install of XP because it takes too long. Not to be rude, but if you took the time you've spent in here, plus all the time you've spent trying various fixes, some of them multiple times, you could have reinstalled XP 3 or 4 times already. This freaking topic is 3 pages long, and there will obviously be no simple resolution to the problem! Unless you fully intend to live with this problem, which means this thread is a moot point, I suggest you choose option one or two, otherwise, when you are 104 years old, you'll be rolling yourself up to your computer in your wheelchair, in all your toothless glory, still hoping that page 23,845 of this topic, FINALLY has the fix. I can tell you this, by that time, I won't be scratching my bald head looking for an answer for you, you already have the answers, both of them start with "R", obviously, there is no other fix.

I can't see why they wouldn't "work", only one way to find out, buy them. If they work, bonus, if not, RMA them.

Celeron "what", and what mobo is it on?

If you turn off hardware acceleration, you're running on software, so what's the point of having a freakin vidcard in the first place?!?!?! Seriously? Upgrade to a 6600GT AGP, DX9 support, and it will rock your world. With the 440 you will always be playing catch-up, and you never will. I packed my ti4200 in, and it's a generation faster than that 440, time to retire the "old war-dog", let him sleep.

Okay, instead of trying to answer your questions one at a time, I'll just give you the basics of what happens when gaming, so we cover just about everything, if I miss something, ask away, or someone else will fill in the holes. Screen Resolution: Your desktop resolution is the "native" resolution of your monitor, that's controlled by your vidcard, your monitor doesn't affect that, unless it can't support that particular resolution. In short, if the resolution your set your game to is higher or lower than your desktop resolution, it will not fully fill the monitor. There are ways to force full-screen, but this is not good for your vidcard, nor monitor, don't do it. Sometimes, depending on your vidcard, it's better to go with a higher resolution, and less "eye-candy", than a lower resolution and more eye-candy, as in AA/AF. A lower resolution with lots of eye-candy can make a game look perfect, but performance may suffer. Higher resolutions, without as much eye-candy, can give you the same "picture" quality, but with more performance. Find the "sweetspot" for your card, in each particular game, and create a profile. When you start your game, that profile will be loaded with the game, and all will be well. Refresh Rate: If you have vertical-sync turned on in your games, or in the control panel of your vidcard, you are limited by the game. If your refresh rate is set to 60hz, you'll have a hard time getting past 60FPS. If you disable V-Sync, you will get faster frame rates, but it some games, this means artifacts. 60hz is the most common, and genarally, "default" refresh rate of most monitors. 60hz drives me nuts, it gives me a headache. 70hz I can handle, 85hz is what I run my monitor at, very comfortable. If you are a gamer, I do not recommend an LCD monitor, they can't keep up to games, and are prone to "ghosting", which means the last frame drawn is still there when the next one is drawn, they just can't keep up. The best LCD monitors out there still have this problem. The response time of an LCD is much slower than a CRT, so you get blur, or "ghosting", because it hasn't lost the old image before the new one is drawn on the screen. Anymore questions, ask away.

Well, your system specs are needed to recommend anything, and give us an idea as to what you'll be using it for, gaming, just surfing, and what type of gaming. BTW, nVidia cards are no more expensive than ATI, it's a very competetive market right now.

First I'd try it with the hub still connected, so Windoze can see both when it installs the drivers, that way, it may install the correct drivers for you. If that doesn't work, start playing around, trial and error. If you can't get it working, you'll have to break down and call your support line, which I know is a chore in itself at times. I've been lucky with Rogers, if I call late at night, I get the techies that know what they're doing, I don't bother calling during the day, my dog knows more, and she's Belgian.

Originally posted by kgeissler: Quote: The information they are displaying is not correct. My 12v reads -5.3v, the temperatures do not match the BIOS...things like that Originally posted by Relic: Quote: Originally posted by kgeissler: Quote: I have an ECS KN1 motherboard and am looking for some software to monitor the CPU temperature and motherboard voltages. The nTune software that came with the board, doesnt give me all the info I need. I have tried Motherboard Monitor and Speedfan, and neither give accurate information. Anyone have any suggestions? What makes you say they don't give accurate information? The only reason I can see for MM not reading temps etal correctly is if it does not support your mobo, or you chose the wrong mobo when installing the program. MM is very reliable, by all accounts.

Originally posted by Sampson: Quote: As you can see from Relic's colorful language the preferred connections are ethernet - bypass USB. As to the speed. If you were using regular cable, when you switched over to high speed, you should have had to contact the cable company to make sure that that their computer's knew you were supposed to receive high speed. It is like asking for a premium television package. I don't know how many "plans" mediacom has, but I can tell you with Road Runner as an example, to receive high speed, you not only have to have them switch you over, you have to have a completely different modem to utilize it. Yes, missed your post while typing out mine, exactly the same here in Ontario with Rogers cable.

I have no idea what Mediacom is talking about, or how their cable works, but dude, no one can configure your modem from the office. They may cap your speeds from there, but they can't touch your modem. I have "normal" cable, 3meg down, maybe 400K up. I can go to the Extreme cable, 5meg down, 800K up, but that requires a different modem altogether, which I can eiother buy for $100, or rent for $10 a month. 10 months it pays for itself, so go figure what I'll do when I go to the Extreme cable. Possibly two probs here, somehow your NIC got lost by windows. Simple fix, uninstall the NIC card with the exclamation mark, then reboot and let Windoze reinstall it. If needed, dwnld new drivers for that particular NIC card. Maybe your USB hub is faulty. What, $10 maybe $20 for a new one. $10 for a NIC. Somehow I doubt it's the hub, because you have an exclamation mark beside the card in the device manager. Uninstall the card, see what happens.

Originally posted by kgeissler: Quote: I have an ECS KN1 motherboard and am looking for some software to monitor the CPU temperature and motherboard voltages. The nTune software that came with the board, doesnt give me all the info I need. I have tried Motherboard Monitor and Speedfan, and neither give accurate information. Anyone have any suggestions? What makes you say they don't give accurate information?

My cable hooks into my cable modem. From there. it goes to my router. From there, it goes to my NIC cards in the computers. USB hubs blow, get a router, with a hardware firewall. USB is slow, and finicky, a direct connection through a router is the only way to go. A 4 port router will cost you $100 tops, and that's for a very good quality Link-Sys router. Seriously, lose the USB BS, it blows.

Originally posted by preiman: Quote: *** STOP: 0x000000D1 (ox20000001, 0x00000002, 0x00000001, 0xF6EA8BBF) *** USBPORT.SYS - Address F6EA8BBF base at F6E8F000, DateStamp 3f04cf17 Beginning dump of physical memory Physical memory dump complete Is caused by a large paging file. Usually results in improperly shutting down or infrequent shutdowns. to repair this . Go To control panel/click on system Icon/ advanced tab. Performance options button. click on change button. Chnage initial size and max size to 0 . reboot....when rebooting will be prompted that windows will repair paging file. Should resolve problem. If happens frequently. Possibly hard drive failure. replace HD. Actually, you should set your paging file manually, 1.5 times the amount of physical RAM you have for intitial size, 4 times physical RAM for maximum size, if you have less than 1gig. 1gig and up of RAM, you can lose the paging file altogether if you so desire, RAM is much faster than using the paging file to write to the HDD.

Maybe this will do the trick for you: http://extremetechsupport.org/forum/showthread.phtml?t=66108

You're welcome, happy to have helped out.

Pull the CMOS battery out of the mobo, leave it out for 5 minutes. Reinstall the battery, your BIOS will be back to default settings(fail-safe), you'll have to reset the time in the BIOS, and start tweaking/over-clocking all over again, but at least you'll have your system back. BTW, don't put too much faith in THG, there are better sites out there. For your BIOS tweaking, there is only one place to go, and that's here: http://www.rojakpot.com/show.aspx?fileID=18. That is THE best BIOS guide there is, anywhere, it can't be beat, although it's often imitated.

Boot into your BIOS by holding the delete key when you bootup, chose the "Advanced" menu, for the PEG mode, select "PEG Link Mode" then select fast or fastest. For the PCI-E frequency, select "Jumper free configuration/PCI Express clock", and then set it to 125.

You'll have to change those settings in your BIOS, usually hitting "delete" when booting up will get you into your BIOS. RTFM, it should tell you where the settings are for PEG and the PCI-E settings. If you can't find it, let us know what the exact model of your mobo is, we'll hunt that info down for you.