Dirty Harry

Quote: Why did I start this thread again? Should have been titled "VIA vs Intel" ... I love Intel and AMD, i run both, neither has problems in my configurations Oooh, I thought you were just plain trolling - good hobby as such and wise comments you made. You guys with strong opinions, grow up. If the world were as simple as which is better: VIA or Intel (just like the good ol' "my daddy is bigger than yours") and there would be only one clear, undisputable answer in all cases only one of those companies would be left within days. Same goes for which is the best monitor, car, RAM-type, school, Harddisk, ****-star, PC-game: anything you name. The real world is not black and white but greyscales and color. VIA is good fore some, Intel for other uses and users. And this is not to say why you shouldn't debate things like why VIA xxx chipset is a better choice for the gamers out there or why a Intel yyy chipset speeds things up for people parsing over 10e9 line databases. Those are the useful teaching threads. H.

Wow, I thought I was alone here remembering (playing) Pink Floyd. Cool dudes aroun, apparently. Of the more recent stuff, Eurythmics, REM, Dire Straits, Jean Michel Jarre and on and on and on. OOOH, and the great one - Keith Jarret - H.

Well, it's becoming my standard solution to lots of things but some NICs (my 3Com ones for example) are by default trying to autodetect best speed all the time. Once you set them to a defined speed, they behave, and so does Windoze. H.

Great minds think alike ! H.

Hmmm, Opera know that one, tried that one, but how exactly do you want me to add it to Internet Explorer and what do you have it doing what IE doesn't ? H.

The Mainboard Producer par excellence is Abit if you want cutting edge, brand new stuff. If you want the proven and tested tech, its Asus all the way. Epox seems OK to, dunno why but I have an impression they're maybe a little bit more overclockable than Abit but kind of flimsy. H.

Quote: It's a tie.........they all suck.... Finally the correct answer. Ooh yes they do. Subscribe to the pragmatic view that newer must be better (forget ME though) and see the light, we are still driving the T-fords of operating systems on hardware that is a mule path. Can't wait for Germany, free speeds for free people and a Mercedes with the biggest engine w/o the speed capping and wrooom H.

Wow, that was really fast Just be so very sure the mobo isn't shorted. Do the other 5 % (including the PSU, by all means) and give up or do it again! You will win eventually. I'll keep you posted if I get any new ideas. Can you check the KT7 with other hardware also, that would eliminate hardware defects from the list of suspects. H.

I disagree a bit with good old Sapiens here. Running a Duron 800 with a 250 W should work very well, I'd guess that 95 % of all <1400 Athlons in the world are running great on one right now. On another sys I have an old Athlon 800 on an KA7-100 running fine with an 250W PSU, and I used to have it on a oddball 235 W PSU. The make and brand could be an issue though, Athlon has a list off approved recommended PSU s on their site check what that has to say. I'm not saying its impossible but I'd (re)check a lot of other things first: - pull everything apart and assembling again...Out with all and every extra card **and** hardware except video card, one mem stick and reinstall of OS. You've done it but still... - no little falling thingy shorting the mobo on the back ? -The memory and CPU in/out exercise several times, with force applied. RAM should snap in so you hear it and the holders must look completely closed. - try another data cable on the HD (the ATA 66 & 100 cables have an specific orientation, blue to Mobo), it was right of course but maybe somebody changed it...) - If you can you run the KT7 boards on 100 Mhz bus speed instead of 133, do it -double check that you have the correct HPT driver (corresponding to HPT bios number) loaded in Windows and check its for the correct product(like **not** 370 drivers on a 366 sys or whatever), and all mobo patches + reflash with newest Bios from Abit. Reset the CMOS through jumper, by the book, all bios data to reset default fool proof options, and reinstall. - Test the all the same hardware at once on a different mobo (ideally another KT7) - then, I'd be pissed enough to test another 250 W PSU if you have one handy, and then maybe I'd be pissed enough to hook it up directly to the closest nuclear power PSU, and see if that helps. Soft power is a setting in BIOS and windows, not sure what you are referring to. BTW, try leave that ACPI installed if it installs OK, that is the "modern" solution. Refusing to accept ACPI is like wanting the Commodore back H.

On a sidenote, its propably not a good idea to use solar power for the backup, you'd have to have batteries anyhow. The batteries you can load cheaper from the grid. Unless of course you Texans are outta grid power for many days in a row... H.

By no means was I trying to divert your tread. I just figured that whoever knows about modding the start menu (as you asked) will know how to add the hibernate button also. Forgive me for adding on the cascading menus, which btw has been raised in a separate thread, which admittedly I shold have bumped instead. Cool man... H.

In case any button spe[censored]t reads this... is it possible top show hibernate permanently (yes, I know i can press the shift key) but I'd prefer to have four buttons ? Ooh, and another thing: anyone know how to add a cascading folder to the start menu (not the all programs menu) ? H.

'est, 'est, 'est !!! H.

I did this lots of times back in the days of Win 3.1, W95 and w98. W2K is a lot pickier with the hardware. I read your error message like W2K doesn't have (find) the drivers for the Highpoint controller. One idea is to try to boot to safe mode (no drivers etc) and see if you can install the Highpoint drivers. Better yet, boot off IDE 1 (on the new mobo) to see if that works and install the controllers there, then switch the cable back to Highpoint. Still, I strongly advice you to do a nice, clean install with eveything as it should be... A fresh setup speeds up your system a lot more than most tweaks. H.

...and all the XP users vote for XP ...nd all the W2K users say W2K What you are really asking is "Which one do you use" H.

Your fortune cookie is very likely to read: Your SOL... On the other hand, if you have a backup of all the files, you don't loose anything by trying, but it is not a good idea, especially not with the combo W2K, new chipset and new Highpoint controller. If you try, then install the highpoint drivers before you move the HD or have them copied on the disk if you can't install them. The likelihood that it will fail completely is high. Besides, there is nothing smoother than a fresh install of windoze. H.

It eludes me why you guys are using NTFS on a home computer. I don't know how many threads like this one I've seen around the web, just because of the "feature" of NTFS that it cannot be read from older OS's Please, before (or rather when) you flame me for not believing in NTFS, include some facts on why NTFS better on a home machine or LAN. Not the usual loose "its safer" or "its more secure" arguments that are without practical consequences (?). What real use do you have for it ? H.

Easy, as long as you are on FAT32... Boot to DOS with a floppy or whatever and do what you want. If you are on the Dark Side (NTFS), I have no suggestions, sorry. If you have to do a reinstall, switch back to FAT32 and have control of your computer. H.

...yes, XP as well, and you will have the option to dual boot to good old DOS H.

Quote: Hey bottleneck, what program are you using that displays all those nifty system stats? If I'm not mistaken he is using CoolMon, which is a really cool utility, fully configurable and freeware too. Find it at http://www.daisyman.arsware.org/coolinfo/ H.

Rrrr Right, forgot the phone: Nokia 6210

THE ONE WHO DIES WITH THE MOST TOYS WINS --On the dive side "The Aladin Air-Z is a wrist-mounted, interactive dive computer with a remote tank mounted transmitter" Weeeell, I don't really hook it up that much but I could... --A Sony DSC-P5 3,2 megapixel digital camera, my favourite gadget. Its small, takes great pictures and you can get a underwater kit although that little piece of acrylic seem ridciously expensive --My Palm m500, courtesy of my employer... --A Canon D660 Scanner - I really like the thing, after owning a HP scanner and having to fight with their drivers this one is fantastic. --Two printers (Laserjet and Inkjet) --My family; consists of three BPU's (Biological Input Units) alas, three PC's -- My laptop ) courtesy of my employer... -- The usual gang of Keyboards, Joysticks, Gamepads etc etc H.

Trolling is a fine art, isn't it...I apologize to all who wanted to read about the topic. Before we go back to the topic of online merchants, just a few comments on the issues: Clutch, great to have a fellow diver around, have you found a dive computer that would run XP ? Mine (Aladdin) doesn't, it has some silly legacy OS. You can upload data to NT though. Driving (riding) on the left was logical when people carrtied swords, if you fight with your right hand. The earth is divided into 360 degrees, each degree into 60 (arc)minutes. Thats were the nautical mile comes from, and one knot is simply one nautical mile per hour (roughly 1852 meters/hour). Now everybody in the world agrees on the lenght of a nautical mile, **but** (you guessed) the Brittish. Their nautical mile is slightly longer or shorter (I've forgotten which). How's that for a sensible option ??? A fathom (6 feet) is still used on Brittish Admirality Sea Charts as a measurement of depth, but for reasons unexplained heights (like a mountain top, or a lighthouse) are given in feet. Baffling, isn't it? Now back to the topic (you heard the moderator) of online merchants on which topic I have little or nothing of value to add, sorry. One question I do have, does anyone know why German online shops so often refuse to ship to other EU countries ? H.

Helped a friend to set up a XP machine on a LAN with two other machines and a Linksys cable/DSL router connected to a cable modem. DHCP is running. Everything works BUT for some reason there are two network connections, one "Internet Connection" and one "Local Area Connection". This causes a constant LAN traffic of 5,5 kB/Sec which is highly annoying. If I tinker with the disabling of the internet connection a few times, it shows up as disabled but we still have access to the internet and the LAN traffic dissappears. I cannot delete the connection. How can I fix this ? Am I correct in assuming there should only be ONE network connection (the LAN connection) like it was when that machine was still running W2K ? H

Found one little problem with this, Ping and Tracert (externally) don't work anymore. Internet is fine though, so I guess its just the Linksys box that is not permitting ICMP. ANyone have an idea how to get that to work ? H.