ConQueso

http://www.ntcompatible.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=25642

Anyone else with this problem might find some help here where rocco got more information, though ultimately he resorted to a Win98 install to get it working...

You could also try this, though its probably not the best solution.

You could try lowering your sound hardware acceleration. For more details try my FAQ.

What would be the pros and cons of making the financial application's temp folder (wherever it was) an encrypted folder? And how is the encryption done, by some connection to username and password?

What driver version are you using? Have you tried the latest 2.45 drivers?

Precisely, Adam. I realize the restriction of the 1.4 MB limit and the size temp files can get, but some programs don't really have big files to save, (while of course some are huge) This is why I asked about application specific temp folders. I guess I'll have to look into the various actual finance programs options and see what their save and temp options are... Anyone know of any that might work well with the floppy drive? Thanks everyone for your feedback. Was surprised to see so much about such a topic so soon.

pmistry, are you refering to a joystick or a gamepad? If a gamepad, the problem with logitech's gamepads (excluding their new dual action pad) is that they do not have 4 shoulder buttons, lack analog joystick buttons and have horrible d-pad response. Their only trump card they had with gamepads was their very concave analog joysticks. Unfortunately, in correcting the first two wrongs with their latest, they've (appeared to) keep the existing crappy d-pad and abandoned the very concave joystick thumbpads. I've used logitech gamepads before, and would be an avid fan if they included standard Playstation button configurations. While I do prefer logitechs concave thumpads over the n45's I still would suggest the n45 over the logitech equivalent--especially to the few who play street fighter type games for its vastly superior d-pad.

Seems when some of my mice age, they sometimes develop this habit. Problem is, this time, I've got a nice mouse, so I really don't want to replace it. It was doing it for a while and then not, then just as I was thinking it was a thing of the past, it's doing it again. Is there anything I can do to clean it or something? Or is it a shot microswitch that would need to be removed and replaced by soldering? I'd rather not take the mouse apart, as MS was kind enough to place the skids over the screw holes. ;( MAN this is annoying. Hitting the button hard seems to work for a more often than not single click. And sometimes while I'm holding down the button it will register release and re-hold very fast. It may sound funny but it's downright annoying. Clicking on the task bar to reopen a window to have it minimize again instantly. Repeatedly. Highlighting sections of text is a real drag to (no pun intended) as when I lift the mouse it tweaks and the highlight is gone. And as I cant release the mouse button hard, this becomes a luck of the draw repeat as necessary drill that gets old fast. Any ideas?

I was figuring the mouse had a 1 year warrantee. Well, I figured I'd check and it turns out it has a 5 year warrantee, so I'm in the process of getting it replaced. If anyone else has similar problems, check the page below for details. http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;[ln];326246 Thanks again for the feedback.

Quote: the fx5200 card are crap - they are being compared to ti line cards..lol Well, with 4xAA and 8xAF, it is a notable comparison.

I would try searching or posting in this forum: http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=32 Also, nvidia just today released a driver update, v2.45 though it say it doesn't include NV IDE drivers.

The best integrated sound I know of comes on some nForce2 motherboards that feature SoundStorm. Many of these don't include an integrated graphics card (All SPP northbridges). Something to note though: While most boards have 5.1 surround output in analog (and some digital), most of such boards have only 3 jacks. Green is fixed front line out. The other two are can be toggled in windows using NVSwap from nvidia. Pink is Center+Sub line out or mic in. Blue is rear line out or line in. Some boards have small cards that enable allow all 5 in and out at once. Be sure to read all the details to know what your getting. Be sure to get the southbridge with the "-T" extension if you want the best audio and options. You can find out much more user information and links to reviews go to: http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=27 For a good review contrasting Audigy2 and nForce2 APU, go to: http://firingsquad.gamers.com/hardware/audigy2_versus_nforce2/default.asp

Quote: This will also clear the ESCD tables which could be corrupted right now and causing some of these resource issues. Good call. In PNP/PCI Configuration, my BIOS has a "Reset Configuration Data" option which clears ESCD data. Might want to see if yours does as well. Also, (you've probably already tried this) have you tried to load fail-safe defaults?

I've got 3 HDDs, 1 span RAID, and 2 stripe RAID. My RAID adapter is a promise fasttrack 100, my OS XP SP1. The 1 span drive is a seagate and is my system C drive. The 2 striped drives are IBM, my D drive and I don't always use them. I was wondering if there was any easy and safe way (short of unplugging their power) to make it so that I can controll when the D drives only power down, or after a period of time they automatically power down without the C drive doing so. Will disabling the RAID stripe drive in the device manager work, or will this just make the OS ignore the drive while they continue to spin? The IBMs seem to be the loudest thing in my case (or at least most irritating). And I'd like to 1) not have to have them making noise unless I'm using them, and 2) extend their life-span. Any suggestions?

Anyone know if there is any hardware solution to this (besides a switch) such as a new RAID card? If I were to install a switch, which wire would be best to interrupt, or would it matter? And what should the switch be rated at? I'd have to find one of those switches with a guard over the top to avoid HD power down/up while on. It's incredible how much quieter the seagate is over the IBM drives.

Could you please post a link to the relevant thread? I'm curious about the matter and would like to read about it. Hope they fix it soon. Were their any work arounds? Are you overclocking your CPU or GPU or running them at anything other than standard settings?

The power of the 5200 is apparent if you combine it with anti-aliasing and anisotropic filtering. That is, relative to other cards, and if you actually use these two settings. Ignoring the fact that the FX is a DX 9 part and the other two cards mentioned DX 8 or 7, in UT2003... - without AA and AF, the 5200 Ultra is about on par with a GeForce4 MX 440 - with beefy AA and AF settings, the 5200 Ultra is about on par with a GeForce4 Ti4200 So if you prefer AA and AF, the 5200 isn't half bad. If you don't use these settings, well... Also, keep in mind those are specs from the ultra not the standard version. To put it simply, think of the GF FX 5200 as the GF FX MX, except that unlike the GF4MX, it doesn't take a step back in DX and has decent options. Raw power, it's an MX. Features, it's maybe a Ti. A strange card, really. As for the "Go" version of it, I don't know if this is a modified chip or not. Perhaps as the card came with 44.22 drivers, this might indicate that the detonator drivers are immature when it comes to the goFX. Drivers might solve it, but don't count on it, especially with return policies lasting 2 weeks or less. The FX 5600 has some more bells and whistles, and is more powerfull as well. It probably wouldn't disapoint. Unless it's a goFX driver issue. For more detailed information (on the (non-Go) FX 5200/5600, try AnandTech's article. Also keep in mind that Alienware and (i think) some other company are starting to release laptops with upgradable graphics cards. Who knows how well future support will go with whatever AGP style port they happen to use however.

What motherboard is it? what exactly has been changed since last it worked? Is your sound card using a pci slot that shares resources with your AGP? I suggest searching the knowledge base at http://uk.europe.creative.com/support/ and possibly unofficial forums dealing with soundblaster. Also, try finding a good forum that deals with your motherboard brand or chipset or something. I had a problem with my soundblaster after upgrading my motherboard to a nForce2 chipset. Granted I was using 5 PCI cards at the time. Lucky for me, though, I was using the soundcard just to keep use of the livedrive, which I didn't use that often. After a while, I gave up trying to get the audio and video capture card to work together, and decided to bag the SBLive for my onboard nForce2 APU. I wish you better luck and/or the same integrated audio.

Well, thanks again for all who replied. I think I might have found a solution to the problem. [edit] One that only works for 1 hour. [/edit] Thought I'd post how, in case anyone else goes through this (likely, as I've experienced it with 2 or 3 different mice). Disclaimer: Taking apart a mouse could/will void it's warrantee. The parts inside are very sensitive, and easily damaged or broken, and hooking up such a damaged device could cause further damage to your computer. Also read the warning labels on canned/compressed air containers and abide by these safety precautions. Attempting the fix described below is at your own risk. OK, now that I've finished my lawyer impression... I took apart my mouse (on the Intellimouse Optical this required removing the bottom rear two scuff pads, unscrewing the 2 screws and slowly lifting/wiggling the rear bottom until the top completely separated) and noticed that there was dust on top of the left microswitch, but not the other right. So, I took some compressed air and BLASTED the switch close range for several seconds. Put it back together and voila! Tested it several times on the mouse config double click test, and it's (knock wood) working great. Staying held down isn't glitching either. WOO-HOO!

Also, for anyone else that might have this issue, please post what files you swapped (for any of those brave enough to try).

Quote: i'm sure it is just one check mark somewhere in the settings but i dont see it now. Thanks for the feedback, but that's not the case. It does this sparadically. It does this in games. And it does this while highlighting text. If it were a desktop option, the problem would not be solved by reversing the left/right button, or happen in games, etc. I think the switch either has something foreign in it, or is failing.

How new is the system? Is it stable with another card? Have you tested the memory for errors?

Quote: Do you have the onboard video disabled or enabled? This is a good question. I was thinking that the motherboard would auto-disable onboard GPU if a card was in the AGP, but you never know.

Is the card seated properly? Also, you may want to try the forums at nForcer's HQ, in case it's a mobo specific problem.