ConQueso

Oh. Oops. I don't know NT 4.0 well. Anyone know if there is any video hardware acceleration tweaking ability in NT?

The game's requirements list NT 4.0 SP5+ and no directX information. So apparently whatever DX is inherent with NT 4 SP5+ should do the trick, at least for this game.

Oh, also, as it's seems to likely be video related, have you tried lowering your video acceleration? (Display properties > settings > advanced > troubleshoot > drag slider right) If this doesn't solve the problem at the setting most to the right that actually allows the game to run, than it might not be video related.

Hmm... I'm not the one to ask about upgrading DX on a NT system. Hopefully someone else will chime in regarding that. You could probably find such information in a thread search, it's probably in here somewhere. As for the up-scrolling. Have you tried tapping whatever keys are bound to scroll up before trying to scroll back down? Perhaps even unbind these keys in the options menu? And is the game running in normal priority? Perhaps a command line parameter might solve the problem, though I doubt it. If you do figure it out, please be sure to post your results.

I think you're looking more for a "1 on 1 fight game" than "combat simulation". I can't blame CyberGenX for posting what he did with the title of the thread.

Perhaps try lowering your audio HW acceleration in DxDiag or lowering your audio options in game? To lower your audio HW acceleration, click start > run > then type in DXDIAG.EXE and hit enter. Then click the audio/sound tab and slide the acceleration bar to different settings to see if it helps. Note, this may increase compatibility but it will do so at the cost of performance. Be sure that if this does work to crank up the acceleration for other games.

Quote: dont use latest drivers, use old 21.* something drivers - newest drivers will do absolutly nothing for your video card. While this is likely true relative to a video card's speed/stability, if he's trying to play the latest games with old drivers he might have texture problems or other quirks. So saying they do absolutely nothing is an overstatement. But for straight compatibility/stability with older games or basic 2D applications, the older drivers are probably better, especially for troubleshooting the problem.

Do your apps tend to crash more the more GPU intensive they are? A friend of mine kept getting crashes from 3D games back to the desktop. There was clearly an overheating problem with his video card, as when I looked inside, the card had a slight curve to it, and the stickers were all bubbly and wavy. Replacing the card solved the problem. Which drivers have you tried? Here's the nvidia archive that include the (AFAIK) best of the older drivers: http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp-2k_archive.html If you do need to replace your card and want a budget one, the FX 5200 is a decent buy at http://www.newegg.com. Just don't get the 64bit memory version. I've read that the FX 5200 performs about as well as the 4 MX 440, but if you use AA or AF, the FX 5200 should walk all over the 4 MX. That, and the MX is DX9 while the 4 MX is DX7. Hopefully, though the problem can be solved without replacement. BTW, are you using the 2.03 nforce drivers? nvidia breifly had a higher version out, but withdrew it for some problems--are you using those drivers perhaps?

You'll probably want to install the latest patch for Conquerors if you haven't already: Also, from what the MS tech support says, you need to update your video card drivers. Congrats on finding the site, and welcome. The people here have helped me in many ways, part of the reason why I try to return the favor.

Hmm... I'm pretty sure it's the mouse. I'd say 99.9% sure. FTR, it's a intellimouse optical (the five button symetrical one) connected directly to USB. I think the previous mouse that had this problem eventually went back to normal, but I'm not certain. I wish windows had a minimum double click speed, as in very fast double clicks are ignored.

Quote: Might be worth getting a Y splitter and running that to both drives. Great idea. That way I wont have to put any physical stress at all on the HDDs. Thanks.

Hmm... Thanks for the feedback. So disabling the striped drive in device manager would not power down the hard drives? Could I get confirmation on this? Does the BIOS (epox 8rda+) possibly distinguish between which drives it shuts down? Or would it be just like the power management settings in windows? Also, is it safe to just yank the power cords (with computer off of course) out and leave the IDE cables in and run the computer that way? I don't want to pull the ide cables often.

What did you decide to go with, and what is your opinion it?

Quote: ATI's quality surpasses Nvidia product... Are you refering to image quality? If so, take note: "As you will remember from our NV30 review, we were far from pleased with the way NVIDIA's anisotropic filtering looked in comparison to ATI's. Luckily with the latest drivers from NVIDIA that accompany the NV35, the problem has been solved... ...NVIDIA's claim that their "performance" mode offers equal to or greater quality than ATI's is actually true. The benefit here is that NVIDIA actually does some (albeit a small amount) of trilinear filtering in their performance aniso mode, which smooths the transitions between the different mip levels. The tables have turned and now it's ATI's turn to play catch-up and make their performance mode look better... ...Both ATI and NVIDIA's quality modes are virtually identical, you'd be hard pressed to find a difference between the two... ...NVIDIA's Detonator FX drivers will be publicly available on May 14th and will improve performance across the board for all FX cards... ...we're glad NVIDIA finally changed their anisotropic filtering quality settings to match up with ATI's (as well as fix the image quality issues we've been griping about all this time)" AnandTech.com

Buck for buck for gaming, I suggest getting an nForce2 motherboard. The integrated solution is the best integrated GPU out there, but I recommend getting the motheboard (without integrated graphics, the SPP northbridge) for its excellent options and build in audio (only if you get a soundstorm spec board). With the money you save on not having to buy a sound card, you can put toward a faster GPU or CPU. Keep in mind that you'll get better performance with two sticks of equal sized ram than 1 stick of the same total ram. AMD or Intel, for the GPU, if you want to go budget, I recommend getting a GeForce FX 5200. This is basically the FX MX, although isn't relatively quite as bad as other MX cards, especially when compared to the GF4 MX. You can find these cards with 64MB and 128MB (i'd suggest spending a few more for the 128) and unlike the DX7 GF4MX, the FX 5200 supports DX9. If your not going budget, you've got plenty of options.

Ripped and slightly updated from another post of mine: BTW for those who don't have a good gamepad to play C2 with, I just bought and can recommend the Belkin Nostromo n45 Dual Analog USB GamePad. It can be purchased (at the time of this post) in the US for $16 from buy.com. Each and every one of the 13 buttons (and even 8 way digipad) can (with the latest v2.6 drivers which are digitally signed by Microsoft) be bound to almost any (if not every) in game function. My only complaint with it so far is that the analog pads are a bit close together, such that if you have the left one full right, and the right one full left, your thumbs might bump together, though the pads don't. And, in case you were wondering, you can custom bind which axis goes to which analog pad. This means, you can bind the x axis to the left pad, and the y axis to the right pad. Which means you can drive the car like a remote controll RC car, one only steers left and right, the other only accelerates/brakes--even if the game (like C2) doesn't normally accept input from the R and RX axis (the right analog pad)! I set it this way and also have two buttons set for accelerateing/braking. Works great. The D-Pad works MUCH better than logitech's or interact's D-pads (Wingman action pad and AxisPad). From the reviews I've read, it's a great D-Pad. Speaking of reviews, here's a good one. Download the v2.6 drivers and ignore the driver complaints in the "cons" section at the end of the review, as it's referring to the outdated drivers. The only complaints about this gamepad are the following: No vibration feedback (moot point at the price) and the analog pads are close enough to lead to thumb-bumping (though a rare to nonexistant problem for most games). All things considered. I heartily recommend this gamepad. P.S. I cant comment on DOS game/emulator compatibility, but my guess is if these emulators can use USB joysticks, then they can probably use this one.

4.12? Didn't know about those. Didn't see them on the microsoft site. What is the difference from v4.1? Is it just a compatibility update for win2003?

Can't one just bring up accessibility options from the control panel, click the keyboard tab, uncheck use sticky keys, and click the settings button and then uncheck shortcut? Or is the above a better or more thorough way?

CruelMail.com has an interesting new anti-spam feature. You could check them out.

Doesn't the ICS gateway computer's NIC have to be assigned to 192.168.0.1 and all clients to auto? Also, the host has to be configured to allow a remote computer to dial. I think it's a checkbox in modem properties, can't recall.

Hmmm... Looks like there's a Carmageddon 4 in the works...

Anyone know how to eliminate the single-colored polygons that randomly appear near the horizon in WWII Fighters? (I run the game using QFixApp 95 or 98 layer fixes with JoystickEmulation off) I've reduced them substantially in WW2Fs 3D options by selecting 'accuracy over speed' and by running it in 32-bit color. Anyone know if or how they can be eliminated entirely? Also, does anyone have a preference between Win95 or Win98 layers in QFixApp? Thanks

Not too many, really. Most of the games I buy are of the cheap variety though, WWIIF I bought as the EAs rereleased "classics" and most of the others I buy are the ones you find in the value section. Only new game I have is UT2003 and TWPGAT2003. Got the latter on sale for $10. Too bad Pod Racer didn't have a glide mode. Then I could probably fix its graphical NT glitch. One thing I noticed was that I couldn't seem to get Anti Aliasing working in WWIIF. ;( This is a pity... (checks something) Well, I was going to say it's a pity as the game only runs at 640x480. There's no ingame res change, which is why I thought this, but a quick change to the WW2.ini file changes that. Game looks very nice high res. 8) Still wonder why AA didn't work. Oh well.

Figured it out. Thanks to DosFreak and the makers of OpenGLide. First, it needs to be patched with the 1.08 update found here. Then, it needs to have the Glide2x.dll file from the OpenGLide 0.08 Final file put in the WWII FIGHTERS directory. Then just launch the game with the number 2 CDROM in the drive (using ACT if necessary turning off emulate joystick from the Win98 Layer). Having the number 1 CD, or no CD in drive will cause the game not to launch and gives no error messages. No more funky skies!

Friend of mine lost his power supply to his scanner. So he upgraded to an all in one printer/fax/scanner/copier and gave me his scanner. Wondering if anyone has this scanner and can post the power supply specs, or answer the following question: The bottom says Rating: 12V/1A, does this indicate the exact specs needed for the PS, and if not how far could I deviate from this spec if I tried a radio shack multiple setting AC/DC converter?