Sampson

Hope you don't have any more problems, but if you do, there are a lot of talented people on this board that can help.

Since last time this item reached the latest threads have found another tool called drdelete and can be found here: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,7374516~mode=flat~days=9999~start=20 Have not used it yet, but it is supposed to be able to delete files in use.

Apparently there are some patches to this game. Consult: http://www.gamershell.com/download_4155.shtml?q=%22Airport+Tycoon+3%22

I believe Tay told us he had a Trident card which may not attach itself as does ATI/Nvidia.

Onboard sound usually has several outputs and inputs. The first thing is to make sure you are plugged into the amplified output. If perchance you are plugged into the non-amplified output, you could hear very little. And, if you are plugged into an input, you won't hear much either. I have plugged these things into the wrong holes so many times basically because I can't read the tiny indentations meant to describe what the socket is. Since I am so much of a know it all, I never look through the book to see what the colors actually mean. Then, check to see if the Volume control (Start-Programs-Accessories-Entertainment-Volume Control) doesn't have a check mark in the mute all or mute boxes. Why would it be checked to mute? Don't know. But sometimes installs do really bizarre things. If all that checks out and there is no sound, you will have to go into the BIOS to see if the onboard sound is enabled. If it isn't, enable it. If it is your first time into the BIOS, the way you will have to get to it is to reboot, but before Windows comes up start pressing any of the following Keys - DEL, ESC, F4. Actually, the computer will tell you what key to press to get into the BIOS. You may need to try this a few times since some machines really do speed through getting passed the point of no return. When you get into the BIOS (and while many are similar) they are different enough that I can't tell you where onboard sound is enabled, but eventually will find it. If it is enabled, and there is still no sound, you will need to go to the Hardware Device Manager in Windows and possibly install the drivers for the sound. Right click on My Computer icon, choose Properties, then click on the tab Hardware and go down to the Button Device Manager. When it comes up look down the list of devices until you see "Sound, video, and device controllers". Click on the "+" to the left of the text. You will probably see several things in the list that tumbles down. You'll want to look for a device that says Realtek or it could say Soundblaster or Creative, right click on it and click on Properties. If the device is disabled, enable it. It is here you can update the drivers, it is also here you can see if there is somekind of conflict. If it is enabled and the drivers are fine or updated and it still has no sound, calling the motherboard manufacturer tech support is next.

Forgot to mention. Some of these video cards do have sound output in the form of a funny European plug that Norelco pioneered. It is multipinned and in your box you may find either that input with two wires coming out with RCA inputs or a little Y adaptor with said imputs. This kind of setup may only be with video turner cards, but yours could possibly have it also.

That kind of depends on your TV. If your TV has inputs for Sound, you would come out through your sound card on your computer and into the inputs on your TV. If your TV has no sound inputs, you could get a small (or big) amplifier with speakers and go out of your sound card into the Amplifier (good excuse, however, to buy a surround sound tuner with 5.1 or 6.1 sound dispersement). Or, if you have a VCR, and the VCR had both S-video and RCA sound inputs, you could go from you computer's video card and sound card to the VCR, setting the VCR up to receive input through S-video and have the VCR when turned on to pipe the audio and sound signal to the TV which should come through the TV's speaker - if all you have as input on the TV is coaxial cable. My guess is that since your TV has S-video input, it also has speaker inputs. As to which of the sound outputs on the sound card should be used varies from card to card. Most will have a non-amplified output. This is the one you normally use. You will have to get the proper jack on the computer side that when stuck in separates the right and left channel and on the TV side the two jacks are usually RCA left and right.

You might go through the procedures that you used in how you uninstalled your onboard video and then you you installed your new video card. What it seems like is that your onboard video has "reinstalled" itself and overridden your new PCI card. Generally, you have to delete any software associated with the onboard video and then go to the system manager to delete the hardware device for that video card. Do not let Windows reinstall a "new device found". (By the way, if you have installed the Nvidia drivers uninstall them also) You must reboot but before Windows comes up, press whatever button (Sometimes DEL or ESC or F4) to get into the BIOS to disable the onboard video. Save the configuration. It will then want to reboot again, just switch it off. Put in your new card, attach it to the monitor. Turn the machine on. If the onboard video is disabled, the PCI card should be detected by the BIOS. You will know because you will be able to see the normal writing on the screen as the computer boots. If this is the case, Windows should come up in 800x600 mode and claim that it has found a new device and want to install it. Don't let it. Hit Cancel and insert the CD that came with your card and install the video from the CD.

Well, for one thing, the S-video output does not carry audio only video.

Sorry, usually these cards come with software utilities. Look under your program files folder and find Trident is the best advice I can give.

Be sure that you have all disable all TSR's, firewalls, anti-virus, or any other programs in the task manager. Boot into safe mode, then bring up regedit.

Depends on your video card. If you have an Nvidia card, there are several ways to get to what you are looking for. Right click on your desktop, click on properties, choose the Settings tab, then click on the Advanced button. On the tabs choose the Nvidia tab and Choose color correction.

l33t-g4m3r, I must say that your a better man than me in trying to change out motherboards retaining the old hard disk with W2K. Frankly, I've never seen it done with any real satisfaction. With the tenacity you've shown so far, you may just do it. Possibility 1: You could try this undocumented Setup switch: Typing Setup /p f (use a space between "p" and "f" ) deletes the existing settings in the Registry and installs a new one during the installation of Windows. This switch is very useful if your Registry is corrupted and you cannot fix it with a backup. BUT, I do not know if this will mess up the settings for your installed software. Possibility 2: These should be the registry keys and the areas of device drivers you would have to delete. I think this is what you are asking for. It goes without saying that you would want to export them to be able to reinstall them if things really go wrong: In HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\Select, set Current, Default, and LastKnownGood to 1. Set Failed to 0. This tells Windows to only be interested in your #1 control set. Delete all keys and values UNDERNEATH these keys: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet002 . . . to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet999 (if there). Don't delete ControlSet001. HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\ACPI\DSDT HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\ACPI\FACS HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\ACPI\FADT HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\ACPI\RSDT HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DESCRIPTION\System HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DEVICEMAP HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\RESOURCEMAP\Hardware Abstraction Layer\ACPI Compatible Eisa/Isa HAL HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\RESOURCEMAP\PnP Manager\PnpManager HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Arbiters HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Biosinfo HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\DeviceClasses HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Network\{4D36E972-E325-11CE- BFC1-08002BE10318}\{CC474C34-503B-400C-B93F-A606B5170ABB}\Connection\PnpInstanceID (Note: don’t delete. Set value to zero) HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Arbiters HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Biosinfo HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Class HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\DeviceClasses HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Network\{4D36E972-E325-11CE-BFC1 -08002BE10318}\{CC474C34-503B-400C-B93F-A606B5170ABB}\Connection\PnpInstanceID (Note: Don’t delete. Set value to zero) HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Enum Examine the contents of the \WINNT\INF folder, in ‘Details’ view, and sorted by ‘Modified Date’. Most will share a small number of ‘Modified’ dates. Delete those that fall outside of those ranges. Delete all files in the \INF\CATALOG folder. Just as an addendum - There is a program called Move Me from Spearit software: http://www.spearit.com/products.html that does a pretty decent job of moving programs from one computer to another. Again, good luck, I really do hope you can pull this off.

If you are trying to Ghost a Fat32 drive to a NTFS drive, it isn't going to work. As the system is telling you, you need the specific files for using NTFS that are not in the Fat32 installation. Boot from your CD the get into the console and type: copy e:\i386\ntldr c: copy e:ntdetect.com c: where e: stands for CD Then, reboot and see if you can get it to come up.

I am presuming that before you loaded XP you had a different OS loaded and your CRW2200 worked. It is difficult to read exactly. In any event, if your BIOS sees the drive, Windows should get the info from the BIOS. If the BIOS sees the drive and XP doesn't, it may mean that you have to upgrade the firmware in the drive before XP sees it.

Personally, I would not "upgrade" to a Prescott processor at this time. The motherboard manufacturers are just now catching up with the new sockets specification and the memory sticks are only just getting to a stability where the 266 (quad scan 1000+) bus can work. It took a while for the Northgate to find its board; the same can be said for the Prescott. Further, the 64 bit processing which is switched off right now will be switched on later and quite probably only in the new socket motherboards.

Try this: Start your computer with the Windows 2000 CD-ROM in the CD-ROM drive. You are prompted with the following option: To repair a Windows 2000 installation using Recovery Console, press R When you are prompted with this option, press R to select it. At the command prompt, type the following commands (press ENTER after each command): cd \winnt\system32\drivers ren ntfs.sys ntfs.old ***Note This step renames the corrupted Ntfs.sys file to Ntfs.old. If the Ntfs.sys file is not found, then the file was missing. At the command prompt, type the following command, and then press ENTER: copy cd:\i386\ntfs.sys drive:\windows\system32\drivers Where cd is the drive letter for the CD-ROM drive that contains the Windows 2000 CD, and drive is the drive that you installed Windows to. Remove the Windows 2000 CD from your CD-ROM drive, type quit, and then press ENTER to quit the Recovery Console. Restart Windows

Go to DSL reports: http://www.dslreports.com/ and choose the item Tests and Tools. Run some of the tests to get some idea of what your transfers are up and down. Also, there are some tools to help with Tweaking. At this point it is hard to say if it your ISP, your Linksys or your computer.

It is possible that it is the cable modem. Personally, I can't stand the USB cable modems. The ethernet modems seem not to have as many problems. Given that, it sounds like your computer is paging to disk a lot and it is this that is causing the delay. When is the last time you defragmented that thing? How many programs or processes are you running? And how much ram do you have?

Despite the fact that it is old, the Bios really ought to let you boot from the A:\ drive. I don't believe I have ever seen a bios that doesn't. That said, replacing the file called for will probably not fix your computer. The boot.ini may have gotten changed or a sector on the hard drive where it resides may have gotten flakey. Changing it may not help either. Am I saying your hard drive is blitzed because of a lightning storm? I would say this - you can't really trust it, even if you can get it running. Suggestion - buy a new hard disk and Ghost (using the DOS version) the old hard disk to the new one. If Ghost is successful, meaning that that whatever physical sectors are bad on the old hard disk were overcome, you should have your system up and running as it was but with a hard disk that you can trust. This may seem radical and even expensive; it is. But, this will give you two options. If Ghosting works, your job is done. If it doesn't you can still reformat the new disk, put Windows on, attach your old disk as a slave to the new one and retrieve the data.

Excellent idea, adamvjackson. It may be the direction Microsoft is going. Unfortunately, I have a feeling that a majority of these things are produced by the File Sharing software out there. In any case, this is a program, which is not a true firewall (which often is alarming to run for many people) that closes down certain ports targeted by spyware: http://www.pivx.com/qwikfix/ If is free and you have to email them to download a copy. It is only one tool in protecting a system, but it works well.

Koolance is not "cheap". But the install is pretty straightforward and anything that works and doesn't burn up a processor, is worth the money. People who want this type of cooling are usually interested in overclocking. Here's the rub. With the Prescott processors, to overclock, you need water cooling and you will probably have to bump up the voltage. This is rather straightforward, but, (here I am speculating) with the newer PCI slots now targeted for Video cards, I am wondering what pushing the front side bus will do to the power supply. Some of these newer cards seem to draw a lot of power. I think that it is not enough just to put in a water cooling system, you also have to look at the power supply to make sure that it is what Intel is calling for as spec for its boards.

Since we're speculating, Alec, I wonder if this is not a two-fold problem. These later viruses seem to go after passwords particularly and I have the feeling they may be modifying the profile to allow their monitoring to use a computer as a bot for a DOS attack later on. That is the first step. The second is that the user runs Ad-aware and this, in turn, targets the profile as problematic. Since there is a lot of confidence in Ad-aware, the user pays no attention to the programs targeted for quaranteening, and erases their profile. Just a theory.

If you can get to another computer that uses XP, copy the file: userinit.exe to a floppy (it should be in Windows\System32. Then, pull out your System CD and boot from the CD to bring up the repair console. (Choose Option 1) then copy the userinit file to C:\ typing the following: copy a:\userinit.exe c:\windows\system32\wsaupdater.exe Restart. This should let you then log in.

If you have never water cooled before or if you have and said you'd never do it again - look at the Koolance Exos system