Sampson

Cormac - slow down guy. Ace hasn't been here since May of 2004. This is is just another one of those posts that has been resurrected from the dead. It will be nice when Phillipe can put a halter on these.

Just so that you know that you are not the only one irritated by yutao, I agree that he should asked to leave since all he does is tout his software. I sent him a message through these forums asking him to look at the dates to see that some of his posts referred to problems that were months and even years old when he first got on. And like you, it is preplexing to see that he does nothing but advise people to use his software. There are a lot of sincere people who come to this forum baffled by (or in a complete panic about)the behavior of their computers, and there are equally a lot of well-intentioned folks on this forum that try to help resolve those problems. Whether his software is good or not, there is a deception on his part that he is truly proferring a solution when he is simply using their vulnerability to his advantage. Banning an individual is serious, but this fellow has a proven track record for "spamming". In the meantime, I wonder if the moderators could edit his posts by at least removing the forwarding urls and placing a message in his post "Edited by Moderator" to at least alert the reader that there is something amiss about his post.

The majority of the things running are McAfee related followed by Creative Sound stuff a few ATI video things and a couple of wireless network things. I don't see anything that could be a virus or spyware. It should however tell you how much McAfee hogs computer cycles checking incoming and outgoing packets. There are a few things you might try for example like defragging the hard drive (this, of course, is presuming his hard drive is not filled). Also, you could try to clean out all of the *.tmp files. Then, you could try some registry cleaning and compacting. One utility that does all of this is System Mechanic. It is free for about a month's use then you have to purchase it. But, just to satisfy yourself that you have done what you could do software wise, you could give it a try. Since it is a Dell, there should be some onboard diagnostics that you can access from the keyboard (unless they got erased when you re-installed XP). These diagnose the hardware and if there is something awry, they will give you a specific number that when you call Dell's support can tell them exactly what is the matter.

Do as peterh advises since it is the sagest course. You might think of running Hijackthis to help you run down the startups and processes going on in the background. After having done that, and it still runs low, if those added devices are hung off of USB ports, don't be surprised that it runs like a kludge. USB ports and their devices do eat up processor cycles.

If it is now "scratchy and glitchy" on even CD's or other Media software, it is possible that HF2 has made either a registry entry for its own driver and messed up your default driver, or it may have substituted one of its own drivers for your gateway driver. In that case, it might be best to restore XP to a configuration before the HF2 install. If it is not interfering with the sound of your other media software, then peterh is probably right on the money.

It would help if your would describe the hardware you have installed. Since you are getting a keyboard error, is your keyboard USB? Having said all that, you will most probably need your system disk to initiate repairs. The generic "if ... not less than ..." message is usually tied to a number which in turn gives an approximation of the hardware or software affected. Even then, it is pretty meaningless except to a truly good programmer. If you do have a USB problem --- unplug the machine (From the wall outlet) for about an hour. Plug it in and then try to boot. This may reset your USB ports enough to allow you to get in.

I really haven't noticed any difference in speed or compatibility with sp2 running. The thing is with Microsoft, at some point, you are almost forced to go to the next level since they will no longer "support" earlier support packs. In fact, you probably have sp2 components running under your sp1. It is better to switch to the later support pack for no other reason than when sp3 comes along, it will presume that sp2 had preceded it.

This is the advice Wilhelmus gave to someone to get it installed: "try creating shortcut to install application (not the autoplay application, autoplay.exe, or similiar) on the CD (install.exe, setup.exe, etc.) on your desktop. Right click the shortcut and select "Compatiblity" tab, then tick "Run this program in compatiblity mode for:" box. Try selecting "Windows 95" from the combobox. If that does not help, then try "Windows 98 / Windows ME".

From the post above, it seems that EZTune and the Gateway monitor were at odds with one another. In your case, it seems to be Pivot. See if Pivot is being installed at bootup by running msconfig. If it is, exclude it. Re-boot and come up in safe mode. Uninstall your ATI drivers, re-boot; come up normally. Make sure that Pivot is not being installed; install your ATI drivers. See if your DVI connection works.

Create the below boot.ini file on the floppy diskette drive. [boot loader] timeout=30 default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINNT [operating systems] multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINNT="Microsoft Windows 2000 Professional" /fastdetect Copy the NTLDR and NTDETECT.COM files from another computer using the same Operating System. Both of these files are located in the root directory of the primary hard disk drive. For example, C:\NTLDR and C:\NTDETECT.COM should be the locations of these files on many computers. Once these files have been copied to a floppy diskette reboot the computer and copy the NTLDR and NTDETECT.COM files to the root directory of the primary hard disk drive. Below is an example of what commonly should be performed from the A:\> drive. copy ntldr c: copy ntdetect.com c: After the above two files have been copied, remove the floppy diskette and reboot the computer. This ought to work.

No, the license states that you may not install the program on more than one machine. Have you put a completely different cd into your cd drive to see if it will read it? That would at least tell you if your cd drive is acting up.

ihatedirectx, there are probably more than a dozen threads that address a problem with directx and any number of games - most of which are really a problem of the type of video card they are using. The name brand of a machine (Dell or emachine) is irrelevant since those machines use a variety of different onboard or full card videos. Try exploring the threads to see if there is a solution based upon the similarity of the equipment you are using. Philippe makes that relatively easy with his related threads section below. If you want to get to the bottom of your problem, post the motherboard, video card you have installed, how much memory you are running.

In another thread, pdcunni, it was found that the Gateway monitor was the problem not the card.

Go to the key or keys you want to delete, and select them. While they are selected right click and choose "export". Give it a name and it will create a file. Usually. .reg. And, it will save it to My Documents folder. Delete the keys. If they don't rebuild in the registry, then you can reinstall them from the .reg file you created. To backup the whole registry, you can refer to this article: http://www.windowsnetworking.com/articles_tutorials/Windows-XP-Registry-Backup.html

Look at this page: http://wordtips.vitalnews.com/Pages/T1624_Finding_a_Lost_Menu_Bar.html It gives a few hints.

Here is what one reviewer thought: http://www.motherboards.org/reviews/motherboards/1568_8.html

Just a question - errors like this happen especially with a machine that was overclocked - not just because it was overclocked but because of the excessive heat. The thing is, the heat is not distributed over the CPU evenly meaning that certain areas of it are exceedingly hot and others are "normal." So, here's the question, have you swapped out your CPU with a new one and had the problem disappear? Could it be that the alloy within the CPU is changing the electrical flow or causing it become erratic either changing the timing or "misloading" the internal cache bacause after being sufficiently "cold" the alloy has to be rewarmed to operate within spec again? Could it even be one of the pins has oxidized? The question is - have you changed your CPU to see if it is the problem?

fatdragon, as Relic indicated, you should specify the manufacturer of your motherboard, the make (Intel or AMD) and speed of your CPU, the amount of ram you have, whether your motherboard is PCI-e and/or AGP, and the speed of your bus. If you are purchasing this card for gaming - the kind of games you like playing, and whether in gaming speed or quality of the graphic image is more important. These are all factors in deciding about a new video card. Again, as Relic indicated, don't judge a card by what the "hype" says about it. Some video cards work with some motherboards better than others. The same can be said for games - clearly some games are biased towards one card than another. And, some games require sheer computing horsepower than just a fast card. One thing you might want to do is examine a webpage like MadOnion: http://discuss.futuremark.com/forum/wwwthreads.pl and read what gaming "fanatics" say about their "rigs." You don't have to limit yourself to webpages like this, but they do speak their minds without pulling punches. Since those folks fiddle with video cards the way no stock reviewer ever would, they push the limitations of their video cards that you might find interesting - that is, if you are buying the card for gaming. You might also want to mention some of the cards you are most interested in purchasing. There are a lot of people on this board that have one or another of those cards who can tell you their real world experience with those cards. Hope to hear from you soon.

You must have an very understanding wife.

Basically ATI's newest drivers require .Net Framework to be installed. But, what can sometimes happen is that the programs using .Net were written for .Net 1.1 . If you installed .Net 2.0 (as one of Microsoft's suggested updates), it will sometimes remove .Net 1.1 and the calling program can't use .Net 2.0 . You then have to download and re-install .Net 1.1 again (unfortunately, as I recall you have to download .Net 1.0 and then go through a couple of more trips to Windows Update to add all the security patches to bring it up to .Net 1.1. .Net 2.0 and .Net 1.1 can be installed and run together.

Thanks for clearing that up dreamspark. ATI's reaction to EZTune seems similar to Samsung's MagicRotation 1.0 which had a similar problem with nVidia drivers. It is now up to 1.5 and behaving itself better, so here's hoping EZTune will have the same success.

Without knowing more about your machine, you might try the Customer help: http://csc.trymedia.com/csc/request/publ...filiate=t_14pe/ By the way, I think it is SnoCross Extreme.

Someone might be able to help you if you would specify what you are talking about. What are the errors you get by viewing your system logs? What article in Microsoft's site are you referring to? As to Application Management that refers to services.exe and svchost.exe in your task manager.

As you can see from Relic's colorful language the preferred connections are ethernet - bypass USB. As to the speed. If you were using regular cable, when you switched over to high speed, you should have had to contact the cable company to make sure that that their computer's knew you were supposed to receive high speed. It is like asking for a premium television package. I don't know how many "plans" mediacom has, but I can tell you with Road Runner as an example, to receive high speed, you not only have to have them switch you over, you have to have a completely different modem to utilize it.

Unfortunately, I don't have your card. Therefore, I can't tell you from experience. From what I have read most of the reviews do say that the card runs pretty hot 85C to 90C. They all suggest using a different cooling method. In one effort I saw that a fellow used a watercoled solution and got it down to 60C. Given those specs, I would say that you have significantly reduced the temperature on that card.